"YOU KNOW WHAT THIS ISSUE NEEDS, I THOUGHT TO MYSELF, MORE PAGANISM." In a very happy turn of events, chef Ella Mittas had just spent some time at an artist retreat in Georgia. While she was there, she attended a festival in a tiny mountain village called Parma where animals were sacrificed in a devotion to the sun. In the same corner of the world, found Georgian artist Niko Pirosmani's paintings were so arresting they caught Picasso's eye. But, as Richard Cooke writes, the artist "spent the few remaining years of his life drinking, shunted between damp rooms, until he finally crept into a frigid cellar he knew to be empty, and found himself unable to move."